Length gets most of the attention, but it is only one of four numbers that decide how a ski behaves. This guide covers all four: length, waist width, turning radius and profile, and how to match them to the way you ski.
If you just need a number, the size charts and the calculator above give you one in seconds. The sections below explain where that number comes from and when it makes sense to move away from it.
How ski length is measured
A ski is measured in a straight line from tip to tail, in centimeters. The easiest way to judge a length is against your own body: stand the ski on its tail next to you and see where the tip lands. The lower the tip lands, the easier the ski is to pivot; the higher it lands, the more stable it is at speed.
Your height sets the starting point. Ability, weight and the kind of skiing you do then move you up or down from there.
Length by ability
- Beginner: 9 to 15 cm below your height. A shorter ski pivots easily and forgives a late or uneven weight shift.
- Intermediate: 2 to 8 cm below your height. Enough length to stay stable at moderate speed, still easy to turn.
- Advanced: right around your height, from 1 cm under to a couple over. More edge on the snow for carving and higher speeds.
- Expert: a few centimeters over your height, especially if you ski fast or spend time off-piste.
Moving within your range
Height and weight
Height gives you a range; weight decides where you sit in it. If you are heavier than average for your height, go toward the long end, because the ski needs the extra length to support you. If you are lighter, go toward the short end. A long ski will feel stiff and hard to bend into a turn.
Skill level
- Size for how you ski today, not for the skier you plan to be. A ski that is too long for your current technique makes every turn harder and slows your progress.
- If you are improving quickly, the middle of your range is a sensible compromise for the next season or two.
- If you mostly cruise groomed runs at moderate speed, the short end of your range is fine even at an advanced level.
Using the size charts
The men's, women's and kids' tables are in the size charts section above. Find your height row and read across to your level. If you fall between two rows, take the lower one while you are learning and the upper one once you carve. The calculator uses the same data and adds your weight and skiing style.
When to go shorter or longer
- Go shorter if you are learning, prefer short quick turns, ski a lot of trees or moguls, or weigh less than average for your height.
- Go longer if you ski fast on open slopes, spend time off-piste or in soft snow, or weigh more than average for your height.
Width, turning radius and terrain
Two skis of the same length can feel completely different on the snow. Waist width and sidecut explain most of that difference.
Ski waist width
Waist width is measured at the narrowest point of the ski, under your boot. Narrow skis switch edges quickly and grip well on hard snow. Wide skis float in soft snow but are slower to roll from one edge to the other.
Turning radius
Turning radius, or sidecut radius, comes from the shape of the ski: how much wider the tip and tail are than the waist. Most skis have it printed on the topsheet in meters. Treat it as a guide, because speed, edge angle and the stiffness of the ski all change the turn you actually make.
Terrain and skiing style
All-mountain: groomed runs first, with some soft snow when it is there. Size within your normal range.
Powder: wider skis, often a little longer than your all-mountain length, so they stay on top of deep snow instead of diving.
Racing and carving: grip on hard snow matters most. Race skis are sized by discipline: slalom skis run shorter, giant slalom skis longer.
Additional considerations
Profile: camber grips on hard snow, rocker floats and pivots in soft snow. The profile section below shows the difference side by side.
Width on hard snow: wide skis take more effort to put on edge. If most of your days are on groomers, staying under 100 mm usually makes skiing easier.
Try before you buy
Charts get you close. The last few centimeters come down to feel. If you can, demo the length either side of your number for a run or two each. Most people can tell quickly which one they prefer.
Rocker and camber profiles
Profile is the shape of the ski seen from the side: where it touches the snow and where it lifts off.
Side view, tip on the right
Common hybrid layouts
- Rocker/camber: rocker in the tip, camber back to the tail. A common all-mountain layout.
- Rocker/camber/rocker: rocker at both ends, camber in the middle. Looser and easier to pivot, popular on powder and park skis.
- Rocker/flat/rocker: rocker at both ends with a flat middle. The loosest of the three, easy to smear and spin, with the least grip on hard snow.
Choosing skis by terrain
Pick skis for the snow you ski on most days, not for the best day of the season.
All-mountain skis
Built for a mix of groomed runs, some soft snow and the occasional steep or icy patch. If you want one pair of skis, start here, usually somewhere in the 80 to 99 mm range.
Specialized skis
Carving skis are narrow and grippy for groomed runs. Powder skis are wide and rockered for deep snow. Park skis have twin tips so they ride backward as well as forward. Each does its own job better than an all-mountain ski, and everything else a little worse.
Summary
Start from your height and ability with the chart or the calculator. Go shorter if you are learning, lighter than average or like quick turns. Go longer if you are heavier, ski fast or spend time off-piste. Then choose width and profile for the snow you ski most, and demo before you buy if you can.
